Tag: Lyon

The art of the tart: six delicious French tarts to make at home

When exploring Northern France, eye-catching pastries—most of which look too pretty to eat—are the norm. Here are seven must-try tarts with ties to Normandy and Lyon, complete with recipes so you can get your fix at home.

Tarte tatin

While tarte tatin didn’t originate in Normandy, it’s grown in popularity to be one of the most sought-after tarts in the region. Tarte tatin features fruit (typically apples) caramelized in butter and sugar. After baking, the tart is inverted onto a plate, with the caramelized apples facing upwards. The dessert has an interesting history, as it was reportedly created by accident in the late 19th century by the Tatin sisters in their hotel in Lamotte-Beuvron, France.

Ingredients

  • 1 sheet puff pastry, thawed
  • 1.5 kg Granny Smith apples, peeled and quartered
  • 3 tbsp. water
  • ½ cup sugar 
  • 3 tbsp. unsalted butter

Heat oven to 375°F. Using a 9-inch cake pan as a guide, cut a circle of puff pastry, using a fork to make small holes for ventilation, and set aside. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine water and sugar and cook until golden (5 to 7 minutes). Add the butter and stir constantly. Add the apples and coat them in a layer of thick caramel. Continue cooking for 15-20 minutes and ensure apples are thoroughly coated in caramel sauce. Remove from heat and tightly arrange the apples in circles at the bottom of the cake pan. Pour remaining caramel over top, lay the puff pastry on top, and firmly press down the sides of the pan. Bake for 45-50 minutes until the pastry is golden brown. Cool for one hour, turn upside down, and serve!

Tarte aux poires

Tarte aux poires is a French pear tart that features a buttery pastry crust filled with sliced pears, often accompanied by a custard or almond cream filling. The pears are typically arranged in a design on top, and the tart is sometimes glazed for a shiny finish. In Normandy, most pears—including the Williams pears used widely for this dessert— are harvested from July through late October, making this a delicious treat from summer through early autumn.

Ingredients

  • 1 shortcrust pastry
  • 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
  • ¾ cup almond meal
  • 1 egg
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • 4 pears, peeled, sliced lengthwise
  • 1 drizzle honey
  • 1 handful sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 400°F/200°C. Roll out the shortbread dough and place in a 9-inch cake pan, using a fork to poke holes to increase ventilation. In a large bowl, make almond cream by mixing the butter and almond, add egg and sugar and mix well until smooth. Spread the cream over the pastry and add the pears, arranging tightly. Drizzle honey and sprinkle with slivered almonds. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the crust is flaky.

Quiche Normande

Like its name suggests, quiche Normande is a tribute to this part of France. A savoury tart often eaten for lunch or dinner, this egg-based filling also incorporates heavy cream and often pieces of ham or cheese. One of the defining characteristics of quiche Normande is the addition of apples or apple cider, which gives it a unique flavor that reflects the region’s apple-growing heritage. Feel free to add a splash to your own filling for added acidity.

For the dough

  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 100 g butter
  • 1 cup of water
  • 1 tsp. salt

Heat water, salt and butter in a saucepan. Once butter is melted, remove from heat and pour in the flour, mixing until a dough is formed. Line a 9-inch cake pan, pricking the bottom with a fork. Sprinkle grated ham onto the pastry base.

For the filling

  • 3 eggs
  • 200 ml cream
  • 500 ml milk (2%)
  • 150 g smoked ham, grated
  • 1 Camembert cheese
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk together eggs, cream and milk and pour onto pastry base. Bake for approximately 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Slice the Camembert cheese into thin slices and arrange on top of the tart. Bake for another 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm.

Tarte aux pralines

Hailing from Lyon, tarte aux pralines is immediately recognizable in any French pastry shop thanks to its striking bright pink colour. The tart features a buttery, flaky pastry crust filled with a luscious, creamy custard made from crushed pink pralines—sugar-coated almonds that add both sweetness and a slight crunch.

For the dough

  • 160 g flour
  • 50 ml water
  • 80 g cold butter, cubed
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • ½ tsp. salt

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Combine all ingredients in a bowl and knead a dough ball. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 30-60 minutes minimum. Roll out the pastry on a floured working surface to fit a 9-inch cake pan. Grease the pan and transfer pastry into pan, removing excess pastry with a knife, and pricking pastry with a fork for ventilation. Prebake for 20-25 minutes, until slightly golden. Leave to cool before adding the filling.

For the filling

  • 200 g crème fraîche
  • 100 g pink pralinés, crushed

Bring crème fraîche and almond chunks to boil, and allow to gently bubble over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick, glossy and pink. For a brighter pink colour, opt to add a few drops of red food colouring. Let cool for several minutes before pouring into prebaked pastry shell. Allow to set for 1-2 hours in the refrigerator.

Tarte aux poireaux

Perfect for spring or summer, tarte aux poireaux is a leek tart that was created in northern France, where leeks are a staple ingredient in cooking. It’s made by filling a buttery, flaky pastry crust with a mixture of sautéed leeks, eggs, cream, and sometimes cheese, creating a custard-like filling. Other ingredients, like ham or bacon, can also be added.

Ingredients

  • 1 shortcrust pastry roll
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 500 ml cream
  • 6 leeks, sliced
  • 3 tbsp. olive oil
  • 1 tbsp. butter
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-inch baking pan with butter and line with pastry, using a fork to prick holes for ventilation. Trim off excess pastry. In a pan, sauté the leeks in oil for approximately 20 minutes, or until brown. Season with salt and pepper. In a separate bowl beat cream and eggs. Add leeks and continue to mix well. Pour into the bottom of the tart and bake for 35-40 minutes, or until golden. 

Tarte au Camembert

A tribute to one of France’s most loved cheeses, tarte au Camembert originates from the Normandy region, where the cheese is produced. The tart is typically made by filling a buttery, flaky pastry crust with a mixture of Camembert cheese, eggs, cream, and often herbs or garlic for added depth. The cheese melts beautifully during baking, resulting in a smooth, velvety filling that contrasts with the crispness of the pastry.

Ingredients

  • 1 shortcrust pastry roll
  • 200 ml cream
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 Camembert cheese, sliced

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread the pastry into a 9-inch baking pan. Mix cream and eggs and pour into the dish. Place strips of Camembert cheese on top. Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until golden, and serve warm. 



Where to find the best French food in the gastronomy capital of the world

 On a trip to Lyon, France, Christine Roberti frequents bustling cafes, samples gourmet desserts and French cheeses at a renowned food hall and enjoys multi-course lunches and dinners at a handful of Michelin-starred spots—only to find that the heart of Lyonnaise cuisine truly lies in the city’s homey bouchons.

In the fall of last year, I travelled to France for the first time. 

Fresh off the season four finale of Emily in Paris, the carryon I packed for my weeklong trip was crammed full of heels (nevermind the cobblestones), a lot of faux leather, and a Yves St. Laurent lipstick or three. But shopping in the country’s dreamy capital city wasn’t why I was going.

In fact, the closest I actually got to seeing Paris and living out my TV fantasy was munching on a pain au chocolat and ungraciously chugging a latte at 7 a.m. inside the Gare du Nord train station, while waiting for my connection to Lyon.

The third largest city in France, Lyon, capital of France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, is framed by the Rhône and Saône rivers and is home to UNESCO World Heritage designated Roman ruins that can be found all over its old city centre, along with breathtaking architecture at every turn. But Renaissance charms aside, the city also proclaims to be the “gastronomy capital of the world”, with more than 4,000 restaurants packed into its 48 km2 parameters—88 of which are included in the Michelin Guide, with five two-star and 13 one-star establishments. In fact, Lyon is home to the second largest number of Michelin-starred eateries in all of France, falling just behind Paris, with an outstanding count of 144.


The culinary journey begins

Getting to Lyon from Paris was easy—high-speed trains depart Gare du Nord frequently and the travel time is just under two hours.

On a mission to try some Lyonnaise specialties, like the famous tarte à la praline made with crushed pink pralines (you can only find it in Lyon) to saucisson de Lyon, a traditional sliced pork sausage made with pistachios, my first stop was Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, an indoor gourmet food hall that’s become one of the city’s largest tourist attractions for foodies seeking out the best in French cuisine. 

First opened in 1859, the original covered market came from humble beginnings, and was largely a space for trading fresh produce and staples like eggs and produce. A century later, the market was revitalized, and in 1971, given its current name, as tribute to one of Lyon’s most celebrated chefs, Paul Bocuse. Today, more than 60 specialty vendors hawk goods from their stalls to the roughly 10,000 visitors the food hall receives daily. Here, you’ll find everything from the finest line-caught seafood, to dainty desserts too pretty to eat, to whole refrigerated hens and hares—snow white feathers and furs still intact, a somewhat tragically beautiful way to validate the pedigree of the breed. 



Spoiled for choice, I quickly learned it’s impossible to go hungry in this city. The options are endless, and I’d be remiss to not visit at least one Michelin spot on my trip, given the abundance of star-worthy establishments. 

Michelin mania

A casual midday lunch at Le Grand Réfectoire unveiled elevated takes on Lyon staples, including a thinly-sliced and expertly plated version of Lyonnaise sausage with pistachios, served cold and topped with crunchy popcorn, pine nuts and creamy cheese. Next came an impressively stacked grilled eggplant atop a poppyseed-crusted slab of salmon, served on a buttery bed of crisp green beans layered in a Dijon mustard.

And finally, the dessert—the most delicate chouquette layered with Chantilly cream and crunchy caramelized peanuts—that disappeared in a mere two bites. Awarded a Michelin plate in the 2020 and 2021 Michelin Guide France, the menu, dreamed up by two-Michelin star chef Marcel Ravin of Blue Bay in Monte Carlo, hit all the right notes as far as a typical Michelin dining experience goes. 



Looking for local

But much like Ireland has its snug pubs, and Colombia has its lively bodegas, I had to find out—where do you go in Lyon if you just want good, old fashioned comfort food?

As it turned out, the answer lies all around the city. Bouchons, which first began appearing at the end of the 19th century, are traditional restaurants found only in Lyon. Decked out in checkered red-and-white cloths, the wooden tables are set close together, creating an atmosphere rich for conversing with your neighbour over a bottle of wine and a hearty, homecooked meal.

The food is always simple, but overwhelmingly culturally rich—housemade duck pâté, salad Lyonnaise, coq au vin and warm apple desserts are all staples. Warm lighting and a tight-knit interior add to the cozy factor, and it’s not uncommon for the chef to pop out and chat with the guests.


Bouchons, though rustic in their origins, take great pride in respecting culinary heritage, using the freshest, seasonal ingredients and local products, and abiding by homecooked meals that follow original recipes.

It’s this simple formula for success that fuels repeat business by locals and tourists alike.

In 2012, the Lyon Chamber of Commerce and Industry created a label exclusively for restaurants that identify as a “Bouchon Lyonnais” to place in their windows, alerting diners that an exceptionally authentic meal lies ahead. Consider it a friendly guarantee that inside, the dishes are always homemade and follow Lyonnaise cooking methods.

Because as with anything exceptionally authentic, everybody wants a piece—especially in the gastronomy capital of the world.


This story first appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of Culinary Travels Magazine. Click here to subscribe to the magazine. Click here to view the digital magazine.