The Veal Deal: Cooking Wiener Schnitzel in Vienna
Vienna’s Wrenkh brothers teach the art of schnitzel and invite travellers to taste Austria’s heritage, one cutlet at a time.
By Ann Ruppenstein
When it comes to preparing Wiener schnitzel, the golden, deep-fried veal cutlets that are a staple of Austrian cuisine, chef Leo Wrenkh has a straightforward approach for beginners. “There’s a simple rule,” he explains from the cooking studio at Wrenkh, both a restaurant and a culinary school in Vienna. “Small cuts mean small mistakes and big cuts mean big mistakes—so we’re making little schnitzels because that’s easier.”
As children, Leo and his brother Karl followed their parents into the kitchen. Although their grandmother came from a family of butchers, their parents went on to establish Vienna’s first top-rated vegetarian restaurant. “Growing up above the restaurant, the kitchen felt more like a living room to us. We have vivid memories of sneaking sweet bites from the chefs or being kicked out by our furious mother,” he recalls. “Later, we took over the restaurant at quite a young age. Karl had just returned from a job in Switzerland and I was still doing my military service. There were even moments when I had no time to change and had to cook in uniform.”
While the menu at Wrenkh now includes meat, the brothers emphasize top-quality, fresh and locally sourced ingredients. “Taste always comes first,” Leo says. “We focus on fresh, healthy ingredients, simple preparation methods and enjoying the perfect moment together.”
Launched in 2019, the cooking school reflects that vision: “to share our love and passion for the culinary arts—and to turn strangers into friends through the experience.”
It’s fitting, as their cookbook Vom Glück Gemeinsam Zu Essen translates to the good fortune of eating together. “We believe there’s nothing better than a fresh, home-cooked meal,” Leo says. “Our goal is to inspire our guests to recreate the experience at home with their family and friends. Cooking is the international language of friendship—it can bring people together across borders, cultures and even oceans.”
In addition to breading the veal cutlets and cooking them in oil until they are crispy and golden brown, today’s menu includes Viennese-style potato salad. “We know it can be a bit strange for our guests who do not come from Austria or Germany that we eat schnitzel with potato salad,” he says. “The potato salad has a simple dressing—it’s red onion, vinegar, sunflower oil, salt and pepper, and more sugar than you might expect. The more sugar you put in the salad, the more traditional it tastes.”
As Wrenkh also specializes in vegetarian offerings, participants prepare mushroom schnitzel made from oyster mushrooms, which crackle and crisp in the hot pan much like veal. “I think that’s what makes travel nice—to experience things that are really unique to a place, and the mushroom schnitzel here is one of those unique things—the Wrenkh brothers’ mushroom schnitzel,” he adds. “Then we get rid of all the knives and I’ll be more relaxed.”
In between preparing dishes, participants help themselves to the beverage bar, which features sparkling, white and red wine, fresh juices and water. “We want to prove to you that cooking together can be fun and relaxing,” Leo says. “Our invitation to everyone is to spend more time in the kitchen, less in the office. Fewer stressful meetings, more steaming casseroles.”
Although Wrenkh now has an identity of its own, Austrian cuisine, Leo notes, is shaped by many cultures. “Austrian cuisine is, in many ways, a misconception itself. It’s actually a great example of traditional fusion food—a result of Vienna being the melting pot of the former Habsburg Empire,” he says. “Just look at Wiener schnitzel from Italy, dumplings from Bohemia, goulash from Hungary, and strudel and coffee from the Ottomans.”
But while there are misconceptions, some things ring true. “We all kind of sound like Arnold Schwarzenegger,” Leo says with a smile. “I’m told that’s kind of charming.”
Recipe: Wiener Schnitzel (Breaded Veal Cutlets)
Ingredients
- 600g veal escalope, pounded until about 0.5 cm thick, edges trimmed
- 2 eggs
- 2 tbsp. milk
- Salt
- 1 1/2 cups flour
- 1 1/2 cups breadcrumbs
- Oil or lard for frying
- Lemon slices
- Parsley for garnish
Instructions
Lightly season the veal with salt. Cut into thin slices with a sharp knife. Place flour, beaten eggs with milk and breadcrumbs in three shallow bowls. Dip the veal in flour first, then in the eggs, then in the breadcrumbs, ensuring it is completely covered.
Fry in hot oil deep enough so the schnitzel floats while cooking. Swish gently with a fork to prevent sticking. Turn once and fry until both sides are golden brown. Drain and serve hot with fresh lemon and Viennese-style potato salad.
Protein swap: Pork cutlets can be prepared the same way, using pumpkin seeds mixed with breadcrumbs in a 3:1 ratio.
Recipe: Viennese-Style Potato Salad
Ingredients
- 600g potatoes
- 60g onion or spring onion, finely chopped
- 1 cup broth (beef, chicken or vegetable)
- 3 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
- 6 tbsp. olive oil or pumpkin seed oil
- Tarragon or Dijon mustard (optional)
- Honey or sugar, to taste (optional)
- Salt and pepper
Instructions
Cook the potatoes in salted water for about 20 minutes until tender. Drain, cool slightly, peel and slice finely. Place in a large bowl while still warm, add the onion and pour over the warm broth. Toss with vinegar and oil and season to taste. Stir until creamy. Adjust flavour with mustard or sugar if desired. Garnish with chives and field salad.
