For this series, we asked four renowned chefs share their favourite hosting tips and the non-traditional recipes they cook for gatherings with their loved ones. Here, Toronto-based chef Luigi de Guzman shares his recipe for crispy roasted lechon belly.
At the W Toronto, executive chef Luigi de Guzman infuses the city’s multicultural energy into bold, expressive menus. At home during the holidays, he turns to a dish from his Filipino heritage: lechon.
“Food has always been at the heart of Filipino celebrations, and with a biracial family, sharing that tradition with my kids matters deeply to me,” he says. “One that always feels special is lechon, a beloved roasted pork dish. Of course, I’ve had to adapt the classic recipe for our home kitchen; we can’t exactly roast a whole pig outside in the middle of winter. My version is a lechon belly, which is similar to Italian porchetta but with a crispier crackling and unmistakable flavours of Filipino spices.”
Holiday traditions for de Guzman are steeped in sweet memories. “As the oldest, it was my job on Christmas Eve to help my Lola [grandmother] mix the sweet sticky rice, stirring nonstop until she finally gave me the nod to rest. It was very tiring, but the reward was always worth it: a pot of rich hot cocoa simmering on the stove. It was the one day my sister and I were allowed to drink as much as we wanted. Now, as a father of two toddlers, my wife and I keep that cocoa tradition alive.”
That simple ritual informs how he hosts today. “The holidays should always have a thread of comfort woven through them,” he says. “It doesn’t have to be about perfection. It’s about creating a moment where food and family connect.”
Recipe: Crispy Roasted Lechon Belly
By Chef Luigi de Guzman
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients
- 5½ lb (2.5 kg) pork belly, skin on
- 4 tsp salt, divided
- 1 tsp ground black pepper
- 2 tsp garlic powder
- 2 tsp onion powder
- 1 tsp ground star anise
- 5 stalks lemongrass, bruised
- 1 bunch green onions
Method
Prick pork belly skin all over with a fork or paring knife. Rub 2 tsp salt onto the skin. Place uncovered in the fridge for 24 hours to dry.
Mix remaining 2 tsp salt with pepper, garlic powder, onion powder and star anise. Rub over the meat side of the pork belly.
Lay lemongrass and green onions along the centre. Roll belly tightly and secure with kitchen twine at 1-inch intervals. Pat skin dry.
Preheat oven to 300°F. Place pork seam side down on a rack in a roasting pan. Add water beneath rack to steam. Cover with foil and roast for 2 hours.
Raise oven temperature to 350°F. Remove foil. Roast 2 more hours, basting halfway through.
Increase oven to 450°F. Roast for 20 to 30 minutes, until skin is golden and crispy.
Rest 20 minutes before slicing. Serve with soy-vinegar dip with chillies and diced red onion.