What is Indigenous food?
It’s a question Stephanie Baryluk has been asking herself a lot these days.
Growing up in the Teetl’it Gwich’in community of Fort McPherson in the Inuvik region of the Northwest Territories, the Red Seal chef has early memories of harvesting berries, moose and caribou alongside her mother and grandmother in their tight knit hamlet of just under 700 residents.
“As hard as it was growing up in a remote community, it wasn’t until I left that I really appreciated that sense of community and having family close by,” said Baryluk, who left Fort McPherson after finishing highschool to study culinary arts at the Vancouver Community College. “After leaving everything I knew, there was a really big disconnect to who I am, because I grew up with such a strong Indigenous culture, and how I found it again was through cooking and sharing meals.”
The bulk of Baryluk’s culinary training emphasized French cooking techniques, which largely contradicted her own culinary upbringing. “Indigenous cooking teaches us to never waste anything, and all of a sudden, I was learning about the best cuts and the best products,” Baryluk said.
Now living and working in Vancouver, BC, Baryluk says that it was that strong sense of community and culture that ultimately drove her to pass on her knowledge of Indigenous recipes.
“There are a lot of people who lost their culture, their history, and who they were as people,” Baryluk said. “Even me, I’m still learning things about who we are as Gwich’in people. When I’m creating recipes and dishes, it’s definitely a fusion because I’m relearning and trying to figure out a way to tell that story.”
In March 2023, Baryluk created and founded the Rooted program at Simon Fraser University, which aims to showcase Indigenous recipes, flavours and ingredients. In collaboration with the university, Baryluk introduced a roster of recipes which are rotated twice weekly and offered on campus at SFU’s Dining Common area.
Each recipe includes a QR code which allows students to learn more about traditional Indigenous ingredients. Duck tacos with charred corn salsa and a blueberry BBQ salmon bowl, for example, are just a few of the popular dishes. Since its launch, the program has expanded to include a catering component.
And while the feedback from students and faculty has been overwhelmingly positive, Baryluk notes that serving Indigenous cuisine comes with its own set of unique challenges.
“I can’t serve moose or caribou in Vancouver, because I don’t have a reputable supplier,” she explained. Finding items that are available year round on the island in large quantities is another factor she must be mindful of. Salmon, for example, is a hearty staple in BC, much like whitefish sustained the community in Baryluk’s hometown in the Northwest Territories.
Beyond her efforts with SFU, Baryluk continues to give back to the Indigenous community by offering private cooking lessons in the Northwest Territories.
“Even though I live away now, this work is for our people. And when I get to go back to the community, cooking is something I’ll always make the time for,” said Baryluk, noting that she’s held workshops for persons aged four through 70. “It’s nice to see other Indigenous people who are excited that our food and our stories are being shared,” she said.
Recently, Baryluk’s niece finished her first year of culinary school—further validation that the work she’s doing is making a difference.
“At the beginning of my culinary career, I didn’t see a future in Indigenous cuisine, because it was just something that wasn’t done,” Baryluk said. “I think there’s a lot of reconciliation that’s trying to happen within Canada right now, so having this as a career option isn’t just important work; it’s so fulfilling as an Indigenous woman. It started as a way to build a connection back to my home, but now it’s just something I do everyday, and I love it.”